Art of making

CONSTRUCTION


The character of a properly tailored suit is determined and achieved by three elements, fabric, construction and fit. This is what is needed to master the true art of proper suit making. Suitsurmesur explores the wonder and beauty of suit construction in detail. This forms the core of the overall quality and this process is the basis for ensuring both durability and fit. Suitsurmesur provides fully canvassed, half- canvassed and unstructured suit construction methods. A considerable amount of time and steps go into the creation of a SUITSURMESUR suit, which results in a meticulous finish.

THE FULL CANVAS SUIT


Fully canvassed as the name conveys is quite simply a suit of sheer quality. Traditionally, this type of suit is constructed with a layer of horsehair canvas under a wool fabric carapace. This gracefully made canvas holds the shape of the suit and amongst others keeps it from sagging or losing its shape. Consider it as the essence of your suit combination. This hardwearing canvas is then cut to the jacket’s form and the wool is seamed to it. Over the course of wearing the jacket, this resilient canvas allows the suit fabric to shape to your body gradually molding a flawless fit. Long lifespan is achieved through rubbing tension at friction points, i.e. shoulders, elbows, allowing your suit breathability space and the ability to circulate flexibly and freely.

full canvas suit

THE HALF CANVAS SUIT


As the name indicates, half canvas suits have canvas material running across the chest and lapel of the jacket only. Past that, the rest of the jacket is fused. This should not be a deterrent factor. This usually brings along a lower cost of fabrication than a fully canvassed suit option and far less complications that you may find inherent in a fused suit adding to its longevity. The half canvassing ensures structure in the upper layer of the jacket providing for a natural drape running across the chest as opposed to looking stiff and lifeless much like many fused jackets do.

half canvas suit

THE UNSTRUCTURED SUIT / JACKET


While standard structured blazers could be described as the clean cut, straight-laced analyst of menswear, their unstructured counterparts serve another purpose. The biggest difference between structured and unstructured blazers is their shape and drape. An unstructured suit holds less shape and is not cut quite as precise to the body. The padding, inner workings and linings usually inherent in structured jackets are removed to give the suit a far softer and relaxed fit. Unstructured suit jacket will symmetrically follow the shoulder more closely, which ensures the jacket drapes naturally to the body in a more relaxed way (especially in comparison to the constructed drape of the structured jacket).

Common additional features such as pockets, working cuffs and exposed seams also help to emphasise a casual aesthetic and they are often made of only a single layer of material, such as canvas, cotton, linen or lightweight wools. A quality unstructured suit jacket should still have some chest canvas. It should just be made from a thinner, lighter and more flexible material. From a subjective point, an unstructured jacket should be half-canvassed rather than a full canvas in order to make the overall garment lighter and more flexible.

unstructured jacket